Almost as Good as Granny’s

I AM DESCENDED from a long line of fine Creole cooks. My great grandmother Lucille Bernard Cocke—the mother of Gladys Cocke Toca, my paternal grandmother—was known as “Sweet Lu” by many. Her husband, Clarence Cocke, lovingly referred to her as “wife.” To the rest of us she was and always will be known as “Granny.” […]

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